Orchids generally thrive with as much indirect light as you can provide. Especially in summer, do not expose orchids to direct light, as they can sunburn quickly. A good method to test whether an orchid is properly lighted is to feel the leaves. If they are hot, the light is too strong and they will form black burn spots. Move the plant away from the window, or move to a shady spot on the window sill. Another method to test light intensity is to look at leaf color – if the foliage is a rich dark green, it’s likely not receiving enough light. Orchid leaves will be a light green color when they are receiving adequate light. Keep in mind that the more heat and light your orchid receives, the more air circulation the plant requires, and the more water the orchid will need.

As the sunlight softens in the fall months, slowly increase your orchids light exposure by moving them closer to windows or adjusting filtering curtains. During the winter months, try to give your orchids as much sun as possible, include direct sunlight in the mornings and late afternoons, so they will be encouraged to bloom. As the days grow longer in springtime, watch for signs of redness in leaf color, which indicates that the foliage is approaching its maximum light tolerance. Then slowly decrease light exposure by moving the orchids away from windows or adjusting your filter curtains to provide more shade.

To keep your orchids prominently displayed in your windowsills, use sheer curtains to control the amount of light reaching the plants. Thicker curtain fabrics or fabrics with patterns will reduce light intensity for summer, sheerer curtains allow more light to pass through for spring and fall. Curtain patterns and pleats will created alternate bands of light and shade, which simulates the natural environment orchids enjoy in trees. Since orchids thrive with strong, indirect light, the same filtering fabrics that protect your orchids will also provide good light levels in your home!

Turn your orchids periodically to provide even lighting and encourage even growth. Monopodial plants (such as Vandas and phalaenopsis) should be turned 180 degrees about once a month. Sympodial orchids (such as Cattleyas and Oncidiums) should be turned 90 degrees left and then 180 degrees right, successively, to keep their growth upright. Turn sympodials about once a week except when they begin to bloom. While blooming, don’t turn the plants or the blooms may develop slightly twisted as they attempt to follow the light. After blooms have fully emerged, start the turning sequence again.

Individual orchids, even those of the same type, respond differently to light. If your orchids are inexplicably languishing, try moving your plants around to positions with different light intensity. If you have an orchid that is not blooming, try moving it to a sunnier area, especially if the leaves are darker green than the leaves on your blooming orchids. If your orchid leaves are turning yellow, it may be from excess light – move it back from the windowsill or try a filtering curtain to reduce light intensity. In late spring to early fall, you can move your orchids outside, hanging them from tree branches where they will receive good indirect light or light filtered through the leaves of the trees. Don’t be afraid to experiment avoiding the extremes of strong direct sunlight or substantial shade.

It’s easier to grow orchids of the same type, media, pot, and size in the same growing area. This will make watering easier for you since they have similar moisture requirements. Having mixed pot sizes or media types in the same area frequently results in over-watering.

Always use a water breaker so that the water flow will be gentle, and you won’t risk washing out the potting media during waterings. If you are using a sprinkling or watering can, use those with a long spout and equipped with a water-diffusing rose.

Always water thoroughly. Thorough watering means that the water should pour out from the bottom or drainage holes of the pot. Copious watering ensures that the growing media is saturated and any excessive fertilizer salts are flushed out.

Never let the orchid pots sit in water for any length or time. If your pots have saucers, keep them free from water. Excess standing water may cause your media to deteriorate and roots to rot, and may become a breeding ground for harmful pathogens.

Always water the plants in the morning or early afternoon. That leaves adequate time for the foliage to dry off before nightfall. Wet foliage at night is an invitation for disease.

When the blooming season for your orchid finally arrives, a common mistake of beginners is neglecting to increase watering frequency as the buds begin to form. Since blooms are mostly water (as is the rest of the orchid,) and the proper potting media typically drains quickly, the extra water needed by the buds may not be available if you don’t increase your frequency of watering. If your buds are shriveling or the blooms are small and malformed (and there are no pests or diseases attacking your orchids,) then the problem is most likely inadequate water. Remember to use water that is room temperature or slightly warmer.

Many bugs seem to consider new buds as a delicacy; even mice and cockroaches may be attracted by the first scent of fragrant blooms. When the the buds first starting poking out, give your orchids a good inspection, peering under the leaves and in the cracks for mealy bugs, aphids, and any other potential predator. Aphids also love new leaf sprouts so check the entire plant and media surface. If you spot a few pests, try removing them with cotton swabs and washing them off with plain warm water; inspect again daily. Although mild soapy water will probably not damage the buds, avoid any treatment other than water until it’s clear that water alone will not clear the pest problem. If you must use commercial pesticides, follow the instructions carefully and use the weakest solution prescribed; avoid applying the pesticide solution on the buds.

If your mature orchid is not budding at all during the normal bloom season for your orchid, you likely have a more serious imbalance in one of the fundamentals of water, light, or temperature. Looking at light first, check the color of the leaves. If the newer leaves are dark green and the newer leaves are longer than the older-growth leaves, you need to increase the light intensity to your orchids. Move it closer to a window, or to a brighter window, or closer to your artificial lamp. Do this gradually over a few days, slowly increasing the light intensity. Within a 2-3 weeks, you should see a difference in leaf color, and you may get some blooms in this bloom season.

Most orchids expect a wide variation in day and night temperatures, as much as 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, and some orchids will not bloom without this variation. In houses with efficient heat and air-conditioning systems, it may be hard to find a spot in the house where the temperature drops 15 degrees at night. Fortunately, your best natural light position, the windowsill, is also the most likely spot of wide temperature variation. Purchase a minimum-maximum thermometer at any hardware store and check the temperature ranges at the windows in your house. If you find a good windowsill for temperature, also check the light intensity at that spot before moving your orchid. A westward-facing window may provide the best temperature range, but the sunlight may be too strong and require a light-filtering curtain to avoid sun burn spots on your orchid.

If your orchid is not blooming and wiggles loosely in the pot, it’s probable that the orchid has root damage caused by overwatering or deteriorated media. Knock the plant out of the pot and inspect the roots for rot, leaving only roots that are stiff and healthy. Hopefully you will see some green root tips that tell you that the orchid will recover. Repot in new media and reduce your watering frequency. It’s likely that you won’t see blooms in the current blooming season, but the following season has a good chance for healthy, beautiful blooms.