Major Orchid Types – Cattleya and Relatives

General Description

Cattleyas are regarded as the quintessential orchid. When people imagine orchids, images of lavender colored Cattleya flowers are what come to mind. Before the Phalaenopsis became so popular, Cattleyas were the flower of choice for adorning wedding bouquets, a mother’s day bunch and prom corsages. Even if the Phalaenopsis has overtaken the Cattleya as the most saleable orchid today, Cattleyas continue to enjoy high popularity because they produce large delightful flowers that come in a rainbow of colors. All Cattleyas are showy plants that bear long-lasting and sometimes fragrant flowers. The frilly flowers may take on bold colors, where the lips may be of contrasting hues, and the petals (splash petals) multicolored. Cattleyas typically bloom annually although some species may bloom during spring and fall, while some others blossom frequently throughout the year.

These orchids hail from the steamy tropical rainforests in South America. The Cattleya genus was named by John Lindley in honor of William Cattley, a leading British plant grower during the early 19th century. They were brought into cultivation in the early 1800s, and since then, countless species, hybrids and cultivars have been developed and marketed. It is worthwhile to note that the best Cattleya orchids today are not collected from the wild; instead, they are raised from seeds in laboratory flasks. This process not only promotes the preservation of the Cattleyas’ natural habitats, but those Cattleyas grown in flasks tend to be more vigorous and better adapted to home-growing conditions compared to their wild counterparts.

Orchids from this genus are sympodial (multi-stem,) mostly epiphytic (grow in trees,) and have varying shapes and sizes ranging from a few inches to several feet (about 5 to 60 cm.) tall. They have pseudobulbs that function as water reservoirs. They also have large, fleshy roots covered with a spongy, water-retentive velamen.

Cattleyas are divided into two main groups, unifoliate and bifoliate. Unifoliate Cattleyas produce larger flowers (up to 8 inches, 20 cm) in colors ranging from yellow to lavender, but often with fewer blossoms. The plants grow from pseudobulbs which are topped with a single fleshy, flattened and elliptical leaf. Bifoliate Cattleyas are 2-leaved orchids that produce smaller flowers (up to 5 inches, 13 cm) but in larger numbers (up to 40 or more blooms in a spike) that come in colors like green, yellow, brown, pink and lavender. These plants are usually taller and have a more elongated pseudobulb.

Presently, there are about 46 species and 35 natural hybrids that are recognized by the World Checklist of Monocotyledons plus thousands of man-made hybrids.

Culture Information

Cattleyas are so well known that even today, their culture is still used as the basis for comparison with other types of orchids. Growing Cattleyas is relatively easy. As long as your growing area provides medium to bright light, some humidity, good air circulation, and intermediate temperatures, your Cattleyas will flourish. And best of all, Cattleyas are tough, resilient orchids. They can survive some mistakes and as soon as they are growing well, they will reward you with a spectacular display of the prized flowers.

Light is perhaps the most crucial factor in making your Cattleyas grow and flower in your greenhouse or in your home. They like intermediate to high light, that is, bright light to some sun, but no direct sun during the middle of the day. These orchids require more light than the Phalaenopsis or Paphiopedilum. In a greenhouse, they can be grown in 25% to 50% shade. If grown on a windowsill, a shaded south-facing window (using a sheer curtain), a western, or eastern window will do. If under lights, they can be grown a few inches (5-8 cm) under an eight-tube fluorescent fixture, or a few feet (50-60 cm) under the center of HID sodium or metal halide lamps. Some species like the Laelia pumla, do not require as much light.

Regularly check the leaves to determine if lighting is appropriate. The leaves should be firm and light green in color. If the leaves turn yellowish or if red tinge becomes very pronounced, the light is too strong. If the leaves are dark green and are long and floppy, the light is too weak.

The temperature in your growing area should be moderately warm, that is, between 55°F to 65°F (13°C to 18°C) on winter nights. For unifoliate Cattleyas, this temperature can go down to 50°F (10°C). For Cattleya seedlings, the night temperatures should be 5°F to 10°F (3°C to 6°C) higher. A 15°F to 20°F (8°C to 11°C) differential between day and night temperatures is necessary, especially for mature plants and to promote flower formation. Higher day temperatures of 95F (35°C) can be tolerated provided humidity, air circulation and shading are increased. These plants are tough and they can withstand temperatures as low as 40F (4°C) and as high as 100F (38°C) but only for short amounts of time.

The right amount of water your Cattleya needs depends on many things like the size of the pot, the growing media, the age of the plant, the growing conditions, etc. Cattleyas in active growth need more water than those that are resting. Mature Cattleyas need to dry out thoroughly before being watered, whereas seedlings need constant moisture. If your Cattleya is growing in a rapidly-draining potting mix, a more frequent watering schedule is required. During winter when the days are shorter and the temperatures cooler, and the plant is typically growing more slowly, less watering is required.

Cattleyas have pseudobulbs that act as water storage organs for your plants so you do not have to keep the potting media moist all the time. If your Cattleya is actively growing, you should water when the medium has begun to dry out but is still somewhat damp. When it is growing very slowly, water only when the medium has completely dried out. You can also weigh the pot and compare its weight with that of a dry pot of the same size and potting mix. If it feels light, it is dry. When it doubt, wait it out a day or two before you water your Cattleya because overwatering can lead to lush, spindly growth and poor flowering. The thick pseudobulbs of Cattleyas will help them survive dry periods. When watering, make sure that you drench the pot thoroughly. Never use water that is softened by the addition of salts.

The humidity level for Cattleyas should be between 50% to 80%. They can still grow and bloom in low humidity conditions, albeit more slowly and with smaller flowers. To increase the humidity indoors, place your Cattleya in a tray containing pebbles and water. Make sure that the tray is only partially filled with water so the pot does not sit in the water. There must be sufficient air circulation to prevent fungal or bacterial diseases that are more common in environments with high humidity and cool temperatures. If your Cattleyas are grown in a greenhouse, you can use evaporative coolers and commercial greenhouse humidifiers and foggers to increase humidity levels.

In terms of fertilizing, you can do this every two weeks when the plant is actively growing, and monthly when it is resting. Better yet, you may apply the fertilizers at diluted concentrations every watering, that is, about one-eighth to one-quarter of the recommended strength. When fertilizing, you need to thoroughly flush your orchid with clear water every month to prevent the buildup of salts that may damage your orchid’s roots.

Cattleyas are typically grown in pots because they can grow very large. The small to medium-sized types can also be grown on baskets and cork or on bark slabs. The potting material must be well-draining, loose, and medium textured. Fir bark, coco chunks, volcanic rock, charcoal, perlite, or a mixture of these components will suit your Cattleyas. You should repot when the medium starts to decompose or when it drains poorly, usually after two to three years. Repotting can be done any time of the year, but a repotted Cattleya will recover faster if this is done right after the blooms fade or when you see new growth emerging from the plant. Do not repot if new roots are just ¼ to 2 in. (0.5 to 5 cm.) in length as they are prone to damage at this size. If you want to divide your Cattleya, ensure that there are at least three pseudobulbs per division.

You can tell when your Cattleya is about to flower from the appearance of the sheath, a leaf-like structure in the center of the growth that protects the buds as they form. In very humid areas, you may need to gently open the sheath when the buds begin to swell to ensure that moisture does not form and cause rot or trap the buds. The flowers will last longer if the temperature is slightly cooler. The scent of a fragrant flower is strongest three to five days after it has opened. This scent will dissipate when the flower is cut from the plant.

Major Orchid Types – Vanda and Relatives

General Description

Vandas and their relatives are popular tropical orchids that produce lovely, colorful, and long lasting flowers. There are about 52 wild species in the Vanda genus which are mostly found in Asian Countries like India, Thailand, Burma, Laos, Vietnam, Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines. When crossbred with relatives like Ascocentrum to yield Ascocenda, they produce compact growing orchids in just about every color imaginable, including hues rarely seen on orchids such as lavender-blue. Because these orchids produce exquisite flowers, they are frequently used by florists to make elegant bouquets and corsages.

Vandas were brought into cultivation during the early 1800’s. The name Vanda is not a Latin nor Greek word, but rather a Sanskrit word used to describe the growth habit of plants belonging to this group.

Vandas are generally tall monopodial orchids with two distinct types of leaf forms. The first group includes those species with strap-shaped green leaves which range in length from 2 to 12 inches (5 to 30 cm.) The base of each leaves clasps the main stem and the inflorescences emerge from the axils. The other group is composed of “terete-leaved” Vandas with pencil-shaped green leaves that are shorter and usually no more than 6 inches (15 cm.) long. The base of each leaf encircles the main stem and the tip is either blunt or sharp. The inflorescence grows opposite a leaf.

The flowers of Vandas have features that make them easily recognizable. The flowers typically measure between one to four inches (2 to 10 cm.) across, but for some hybrids, these can be larger, up to five inches (15 cm.) across. The lateral petals and the sepals have the same shape and color, although the petals may be slightly smaller and the dorsal sepal larger. The lip of the flower has a sac-shaped or spurred base. Within this lip is an apical lobe that bears a fleshy disk. This apical lobe is unique to Vanda flowers, although you need to look at the flower very closely in order to notice this distinctive feature. A lot of the species produce very fragrant and long lasting flowers, and many are fast growers and repeat bloomers.

Cultural Information

Because they occur naturally in tropical climates, these orchids prefer a growing environment that provides bright light, warm temperatures, plenty of water and high humidity.

Vandas like bright light, but usually not direct light, all year round. Terete Vandas require the most light and are sometimes grown outdoors in tropical climates in direct sunlight. In a greenhouse, they would need about 25% to 35% shade, and less during winter or on overcast days. Rhynchostylis, a Vanda relative, and Ascocendas require less light.

For gardeners in areas with short days and low light during winter, growing Vandas may be more difficult to flower , but not impossible. In such cold areas, they are usually summered outside and grown indoors in a sunny window during winter, or they are grown year round in a greenhouse, or under artificial lights. Six or more hours of sun on a western, southern or eastern exposure, or under metal halide lights will be required. If using fluorescent lights, stick to the compact varieties of Ascocendas. If cultivated in warm climates, they would do best under light shade such as in a lath house.

If your Vandas are getting sufficient light, the leaves will be medium green (not yellowish or dark green). The leaves should be firm. If they are long and floppy, this is usually a sign that more light is needed. In some plants, you may see a slight red blush which is a sign that the light intensity is good. However, if the red blush covers the leaves, this may indicate too much light.

The ideal environment for most Vandas is warm, but not hot. The most favorable temperature should hover between 60°F to 70°F (16°C to 21°C) at night, and a maximum of 95°F (35°C) during the day. With the right temperature, your Vandas will produce faster growth that needs to be balanced with higher humidity, air circulation and increased watering and fertilization.

Vandas do not have pseudobulbs so they do not have the ability to store water. Because of this, they should be watered copiously, especially when they are actively growing. Vandas are usually grown in well-draining media (or in no media at all in wood hanging baskets) because the roots must dry quickly and should not remain waterlogged. Regular and consistent watering is very important. If the environment is warm and sunny, Vandas may need daily watering. Watering may be reduced in the winter or during cloudy weather. If you are not using any growing medium for your Vandas, watering frequency must be increased.

In terms of humidity, Vandas will do best in high humidity, that is, around 70% to 80%. They can still be successfully grown and induced to bloom in moderate humidity of about 40% to 70% although they will grow more slowly and produce fewer flowers. You can use humidifiers to raise humidity. If you are growing your Vandas in a greenhouse, use evaporative humidifiers. If you are growing them inside the home, place your Vandas on trays with pebble or gravel that is partially filled with water. You may also enclose the growing area with plastic film, but make sure there is fresh air and air movement to avoid mold and rot.

Fertilizing your Vandas can promote healthier growth and more abundant flowering. When they are in full growth (usually during spring through fall), Vandas tend to be heavy feeders. You may fertilizer them weekly during this growth period. During winter or their period of rest, light feedings once a month can be done. When fertilizing, make sure that there is no salt build up in the roots and in the growing medium.

Vandas are usually grown in hanging, slatted baskets with little medium. In humid area, they can be grown without any medium at all. Vandas in baskets do not need to be repotted often. Mature plants in baskets only need to be transplanted when the baskets or the growing media disintegrate. Pots with coarse, well-draining mix are acceptable too. Whether they are potted or not, their roots like to be aerial. The roots may grow over the side of the pot or basket and into the air. These roots may become heavy and entangled as they grow. These roots are fragile, so handle them with utmost care when repotting. Do not disturb the roots unnecessarily and repot only when the plant outgrows its pot.

Vandas that receive proper care may become fairly large. If the plant becomes too tall, you can cut “top your orchid” by cutting out and transplanting the top portion of the stem. This a good way for your to multiply your Vandas.

Major Orchid Types – Angraecoids (Angraecum and Aerangis)

Angraecoid is an alliance of orchids that originates primarily in Africa including adjacent islands like Madagascar. These star shaped flowers take on colors ranging from creamy green to white. They come in various sizes, from dwarf orchids measuring only several inches tall to giant orchids that can be 6 feet (185 cm.) or more in height. There are plenty of Angraecoids that are in the right size range for home orchid growers. These fragrant orchids emit their sweet scent at night or in the early morning during which they are pollinated. Many of the wild species from this alliance are under threat from habitat destruction. Fortunately, these orchids can be easily grown from the seed by professional orchid growers, although they do take several years to grow to maturity.

Angraecoids require an environment that will simulate their native tropical and subtropical environment. They need warm temperatures of 70°F to 80°F (21°C to 27°C) during the day and at least 60°F (16°C) at night. Humidity must be high, at least 50%, and moderate to very bright light is required. If grown in a windowsill, a southern or eastern exposure will work well. Regular watering and fertilizing are needed during active growth. Make sure that the water you use is pure with no or very little salt content.

The growth type of Angraecoids is monopodial, and cultivating them can be easy to intermediate difficulty. They have sensitive roots that do not like being disturbed so do not move them unnecessarily. The smaller ones will do well mounted on bark while the bigger ones can be potted. If the growing environment is just right for your Angraecoid, you will be rewarded with lush, dark green foliage and a lot of lovely flowers.

Within the Angraecoid alliance, the genera Angraecum and Aerangis are the most popular and each are discussed below.

Angraecum Genus

Angraecum is a large genus and one of the first African orchids to be chronicled and categorized. This genus was established in 1804, and its name is actually a Latinized form of the Malayan word angurek, which is used to describe orchids that have a growth habit similar to the genus Vanda. Many species that formerly belonged to this genus have now been reclassified under other genera like the Aerangis and Jumella.

There are over 200 species belonging to the Angraecum genus today. One particular species, the Angraecum sequipedal (Star of Bethlehem, King of Angraecums), is particularly famous because of Charles Darwin. This orchid can span up to 3 feet (92 cm.) tall and bear flowers that are 4-1/2 inches (11 cm.) across with a spur of up to 15 inches (38 cm.) long. This prompted Charles Darwin to postulate that there might exist a night flying moth with a 12-inch (30 cm.) tongue to allow it to harvest the nectar from such a big flower and pollinate it in the process. At that time, the science community thought this was an absurd hypothesis. But 35 years after Darwin’s death, he was proven right when a hawk moth with a 12-inch (30 cm.) tongue was discovered as a pollinator of this orchid.

Angraecums are typically monopodial and epiphytic. The culture for Angraecums slightly varies depending on their natural habitat. Those Angreacums that occur naturally in mountainous and cooler habitats need a cooler temperature and more shade compared to those orchids growing in the lowlands which require a warmer temperature and more sun. The ideal potting material must be a well-draining epiphytic mix which may contain tree fern, coco chunks, bark or osmunda.

Aerangis

Orchids belonging to Aerangis genus are among the most beautiful white-colored vandaceous orchids in Africa. Flowers of Aerangis orchids have long curving nectaries or spurs at the base of the lip that resemble shooting stars. The name Aerangis was coined from two Greek words aer (air) and angos (vessel) in reference to this said nectariferous spur.

It was only in 1865 when this genus was founded that some species from the Angraecum genus were reclassified as Aerangis. The distinguishing characteristics of this genus were the long slender rostellum (the part at the tip of the column) stretching forward from below the column apex right across the stigmatic surface, and the long slender stipe (the stalk-like elongation of the receptacle of the flower) located on the upper surface of this rostellum and supporting the two pollinia. Today, there are about 51 species and a few natural hybrids recognized in the Aerangis genus.

An Aerangis orchid is relatively easy to grow. It prefers bright diffused light. Careful management is critical however during its dormant period after it has bloomed. If watering is insufficient, it may lose its leaves and dry out. If it is sprayed too frequently or if cold water is used, it may lose its leaves too and die. All species in this genus grow well in pots or in wood baskets. Use any potting medium that is suitable for epiphytic orchids. Note that those orchids with finer roots need potting media that have smaller particles and retain moisture better than those orchids with thicker roots. All species can also be mounted using bark or cork. If they are mounted, they must be placed in an area with shade and high humidity.

Major Orchid Types – Phalaenopsis and Doritis

General Description of Phalaenopsis

The Phalaenopsis is perhaps the most popular type of orchid grown today. About 75% of all orchids purchased presently are from the genus Phalaenopsis. This type of orchid is very easy to grow and bring to bloom in the home environment making it an ideal orchid for beginners. These orchids produce lost lasting, stunning flowers, so they are highly sought after by both amateurs and experts. More commonly known as moth orchids, the name Phalaenopsis is derived from two Greek words, phalania which means moth, and opsis which means appearance. As one would guess, the classic Phalaenopsis flower resembles a moth in flight.

Phalaenopsis orchids are native throughout tropical Asia, the Pacific Islands, and Australia. There are about 63 species and thousands of hybrids developed, of which 7 are natural hybrids. Originally found in the remote islands of the Philippines, the Phalaenopsis was not always so popular. During the Victorian times in England, the Phalaenopsis was practically unknown compared to Cattleyas and Oncidiums. This is because the typical Phalaenopsis plant produces succulent leaves that are easily damaged in transit. With the advent of scientific breakthroughs in transportation and orchid growing techniques, Phalaenopsis can now be safely grown and transported throughout the world, giving it the broad market appeal it now enjoys.

In terms of growth habit, plants in this genus are monopodial and usually epiphytic. There are a few lithophytes (plants that grow on rocks) and terrestrial (plants that grow on or in the soil) species in their native habitats. These orchids do not have pseudobulbs; instead, they have very short stems that are hidden by clasping leaves, making them appear as though they are stem-less. The leaves are usually flat, leathery, glossy green, and long, with surfaces that are clear green or mottled, and with undersides that may be purple or burgundy in color. The leaves emerge from the center of the orchid one at a time in an alternating pattern. At the base where the leaf is attached to the stem is a bud. This bud will eventually develop into an arching flower spike that may range from a few inches to several feet long. Some lower leaves may turn yellow as they age; this is perfectly normal. The old leaves will wither as new leaves are produced and will eventually fall off the stem.

The Phalaenopsis flowers appear in different ways, either as small flowers in great numbers clustered together (multiflora) or as brightly colored larger but fewer flowers in an inflorescence. The flowers can be borne opposite on the inflorescence in double rows (raceme), as a branched inflorescence (panicle), or in an opposite pattern on a very short spike (also called raceme). The flowers of a Phalaenopsis orchid come in a wide palette of hues, but pink, red, white, yellow and green are the most common colors. The flowers also often come with marks, bars, and stripes.

Phalaenopsis plants are noted for being generous with their flower displays, as they are able to produce multiple and/or repeat blooming. Moreover, the Phalaenopsis flower can last a long time on the plant. In fact, it can remain in bloom for up to 6 months. If in a vase, it can last for a couple of weeks. Some types produce sweet-scented fragrant blooms.

Phalaenopsis Cultural Information

The Phalaenopsis can thrive in a greenhouse, in a light garden, on a windowsill, or under lights. A great characteristic of Phalaenopsis is that they like indoor climates that are suitable to humans. Today, more Phalaenopsis orchids (especially the vigorous growing hybrids) are grown in sunny windowsills and under lights than in a greenhouse. Their cultural requirements with respect to temperature, ventilation, humidity and light are easy to provide without causing radical changes in the orchid grower’s living conditions. There are newer hybrids that have compact growth habits making them ideal for orchid growers who do not have a lot of space in which to grow their orchids.

Phalaenopsis favor bright light but not direct sunlight, which can harm them. The ideal light is between 1,000 to 1,200 foot candles. If grown on a windowsill, any exposure will do, except north facing windows. If grown under lights, they should be 6-12” (15 to 30 cm) under a two-tube fluorescent fixture. Look at the leaves to evaluate the quantity of light they are getting. If the light is adequate, the leaves will be firm and medium green in color. If they are yellowish or have dark red blush covering the top of the leaves, the lighting is too strong. If they are dark green, long and floppy, then the lighting is too weak.

These orchids like warm temperatures for most of the year. The ideal temperature should be about 75°F to 80°F during the day and 65°F at night. The temperature must not drop below 60°F on winter nights. Species under the subgenus Aphyllae and Parishianae can tolerate slightly cooler temperatures at 75°F during the day and 55°F at night.

To water your Phalaenopsis, you should wait until the potting medium has begun to dry but is still slightly damp. The roots like to be moist, but not soggy. You should water thoroughly, especially if the water has a high mineral content. In terms of humidity, the ideal value hovers between 40% to 70%, depending on the species. Phalaenopsis will thrive best with 60% to 70% humidity, but will still grow and bloom, albeit more slowly and with smaller and fewer flowers, in lower humidity.

Because Phalaenopsis orchids are epiphytic, they grow well mounted on slabs or tree fern bark. If they are potted, the potting material must be coarse and well-draining. Sphagnum moss is frequently used in warm and humid areas, and bark mixes in cooler and dryer areas make ideal potting materials. It is best to re-pot them every year during late spring or early summer after they have bloomed. The Phalaenopsis does not like to be overpotted so the use of tight-fitted pots or containers is recommended.

You should watch out for bud blasts where the flowers dry up and fall off the plant prior to opening. To prevent this from happening, maintain constant humidity and moisture in the media. Also, protect your Phalaenopsis from drafts. For a graceful bearing of the flowers on the plant, you should stake the spike early (when it is about 12” tall) to help support the flower as it develops. To make the blooms last, slightly lower the temperature and the light intensity.

General Description of Doritis

Those orchids, formerly in the genus, Doritis, have now been reclassified by some botanical taxonomists as being Phlaaenopsis, although in the trade, they are still frequently referred to as Doritis. Phalaenopsis, Doritis, whatever name is used for this group of orchids, they are characteristically small to medium sized orchids that closely resemble the foliage of other moth orchids. These monopodial plants have thick, oblong and stiff-textured leaves that are dark green on top and sometimes purple or burgundy on the underside. However, the flowers they bear differentiate them from other Phalaenopsis.

The flowers of Doritis have a very distinctive spear-shaped lip. In fact, botanist John Lindley may have alluded to this spear-like lip when he named this genus Doritis since the Greek word for spear is Dory. An alternate theory for the origin of the name is that it is a diminutive form of Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love and beauty, perhaps in reference to the charm of these flowers.

To further distinguish these species from the other Phalaenopsis, the lips of their flowers are three-lobed, where the middle lobes are larger with a slightly wavy margins. At the base of the lips and behind the two side lobes are two antennae. These species’ flowers also tend to be smaller than other Phalaenopsis blooms. They are usually no more than 1 ½ inches (4 cm.) across, sometimes even smaller. The flowers frequently come in pastel colors and light to dark purple, and are borne in multiples along a bare, stiff spike emerging from a clump of leaves. Unlike other Phalaenopsis inflorescences that tend to gracefully arch, Doritis flower spikes are often stiff and erect as a result of their mostly terrestrial habitat. Note that most other Phalaenopsis are epiphytic.

These summer blooming orchids are natives of Southeast Asian countries such as Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, Vietnam, Burma, Cambodia, and Laos, and South Asia countries as well like Nepal, India and Sri Lanka. There are only a few species within this group, but they are frequently interbred with other Phalaenopsis species and hybrids to create thousands of hybrids frequently referred to as Doritaenopsis , a fabricated word that combines Doritis with Phalaenopis.

Cultural Information of Doritis

The cultural requirements of these species are very similar to its close relative, the Phalaenopsis. They have almost the same warmth and moisture requirements, but they prefer more intense lighting. Doritis like warm temperatures, between 65ºF to 70ºF (18ºC to 21ºC) at night. The light should be moderate to high, but not direct sunlight. Ideal humidity is between 40% to 60%. Regular, consistent watering and feeding are important, especially during active growth.

The best potting medium is fine or medium bark or coco chips that are usually combined with charcoal and/or perlite. As these plants grow, their roots tend to raise the plant up in the pot, a signal for you to repot. Like the other Phalaenopsis, it’s best to pot these orchids during late spring or summer, after they have finished blooming. These orchids do not like to be overpotted, so use tight-fitting pots.

You can induce a second bloom by cutting off the flower spike after the blooms have faded. You should cut just above the second jointed node from where the first spike originated.