Major Orchid Types – Phragmipedium

General Description

Phragmipediums are other types of slipper orchids, but these hail from Central and South America. These relatives of the Asian slipper orchids are indigenous to the mountainous areas in Peru, Ecuador, Columbia, Bolivia, Brazil, and as far north as southern Mexico. This genus was founded in 1896 when botanist Robert Rolfe separated these orchids from Cypripediums, another slipper orchid genus. This genus takes its name from the Greek words phragma, meaning fence, and pedilon, meaning slipper, in reference to the fence-like division of the ovary and the slipper-shaped lip.

These orchids have a sympodial growth habit. They are either epiphytic or terrestrial and the majority of these grow in elevations between 1,300-7,200 feet (400 to 2,200 meters). Similar to other slipper orchids, Phragmipediums form tight fans instead of pseudobulbs. Each fan can carry up to eight rich dark green leaves that are long and flat with a leathery texture. The leaves can be as long as 3 feet (92 cm.) and as wide as two inches (5 cm.) During blooming season, inflorescences emerge from the leaves. These spikes can measure up to 3 feet (92 cm.) long and bear up to 15 flowers in a sequential pattern.

Phragmipediums are rapidly growing orchids that produce complex but uniquely amazing blooms. Many flowers are long and hanging, and in some cases, may measure up to 30 inches (76 cm.) from the tip of the dorsal sepal to the tip of lateral petal. In these orchids, the lateral petals are tail-like, long, narrow, twisted and often dangling. This “mustache” look is perhaps the reason why some people call this genus the “Mandarin” orchids. The flowers also have a shield-like staminode, a 3-locular ovary, and a large pouch-like lip that is curved inwards. The column in the center of the flower is often covered with fine hairs, giving the center a unique, furry look. The flowers usually come in shades of green and brown which may sometimes be accented with stripes or yellow and purple markings. Some varieties come in bright red, pink, orange, red, and magenta.

The Phragmipedium genus is a small group of orchids, comprised of only about 30 species, a few varietal forms and one natural hybrid. The popular species include P. boissierianum, P. caudatum, P. longifolium, P. sargentianum, and the recently discovered P. kovachii. These species have also contributed to a number of excellent hybrids that are increasingly becoming popular. These newer hybrids tend to be more vigorous and easy growing, plus they are available in a broader range of colors compared to most of the species.

Phragmipediums used to be expensive plants. Fortunately, Hawaiian growers have perfected the culture of these orchids and have made them commercially available as blooming size plants. Now the cost of Phragmipediums is very reasonable so that more people are able to enjoy and grow these orchids in their homes.

Cultural Information

Orchids belonging to this genus, although very similar to their Asian relatives, differ somewhat from Paphiopedilums in terms of their cultural requirements. In general, they have the same humidity and temperature needs, but they like to be wetter than Paphiopedilums. In addition, they prefer more light, just like the Cattleyas.

High light levels are ideal for best growing and blooming results. The ideal amount of sunshine is about four hours on a south or west-facing windowsill. Under lights, they will do well about 15 to 30 cm. below an eight-tube fluorescent fixture, or under an HID sodium or metal halide lamp. The amount of light should be at the brightest possible level without burning the leaves. This level of higher light intensity will produce more colorful flowers. You can tell if the leaves are prone to leaf burn by feeling them during the brightest time of the day. If they feel hot, then they are in danger of burning. To prevent burning, increase the air circulation or reduce the light.

These orchids like intermediate temperatures. Avoid extreme temperatures, that is, lower than 55°F (13°C) on winter nights and higher than 90°F (32°C) on summer days. Ensure that the nighttime temperatures are cooler by at least 15°F (8°C) than daytime temperatures to promote flower formation.

Unlike many other orchids, Phragmipediums need to be kept constantly moist especially during active growth. In fact, these orchids are commonly grown in a shallow platter of fresh water (filled about .5 in. (1 cm.) deep). In their natural habitats, these orchids grow by streams so their roots are soaked during active growth. Use distilled water or rainwater instead of tap water, if possible. When your Phragmipedium is not actively growing, you can let the roots dry out slightly before watering.

The recommended humidity level for these orchids is between 60% to 70%. If the humidity is lower, your Phragmipedium will still grow, although at a slower pace. If the humidity is too high, ensure that there is enough air circulation to prevent molding and rotting.

Weak but frequent fertilizing using a balanced formula is best for these orchids. During spring and summer, use one-eighth to one-quarter of the manufacturer recommend strength every week. During autumn and winter, reduce the frequency to every two weeks. Leach or wash your plants’ media thoroughly with water regularly to prevent fertilizer salt buildups that can harm your orchids’ roots.

When choosing a potting medium, select a fine mixture that retains water well. Fir bark mixed with chunks of charcoal, sphagnum moss or perlite will work well. Since the potting medium is constantly damp, it breaks down more quickly than the rapidly draining ones. Hence, more frequent repotting is necessary. This is usually once a year as new growths start.

Mature Phragmipediums reward the grower with larger flower sizes and brighter colors than first-bloom seedlings. As such, you should not repeatedly divide your Phragmipediums. You should allow them to grow as a large plant in a decent-size pot. To encourage blooming, apply weak doses of fertilizer and, if necessary, higher temperatures, more water, and/or brighter light. The flowers of these plants will naturally fall off the spikes before they wilt.

Major Orchid Types – Paphiopedilum

General Description

Paphiopedilum, more commonly known as Lady’s Slipper, is a genus of extremely popular orchids that have pouch-like lips (or labella) which resemble a lady’s slipper. These orchids originate in the tropical forests of Asia (southern India, China, Indonesia, Vietnam, the Philippines, and New Guinea), hence they are also commonly referred to as Asian Lady Slipper, and sometimes, even just plain slipper orchids.

This genus got its name from botanist Ernest Pfitzer who used the Greek words paphos, a Greek island famous for its temple to Venus (the Greek goddess of love and beauty), and pedilon meaning sandal. The scientific name is thus consistent with the unique, identifying slipper-like appearance of the flower lip. There are about 100 species recognized under this genus, including many varietal forms and 23 natural hybrids, of which some hybrids are highly awarded. Unfortunately, Paphiopedilums have not yet been successfully cloned; as a result the awarded hybrids can be expensive. Luckily, Paphiopedilum species and hybrids can be successfully grown from seed so they are reasonably priced.

In their native habitats, Paphiopedilums are mostly semi-terrestrial, growing in humus and other materials on the forest floor, and on pockets of humus on cliffs. Some occasionally grow on trees. They have a sympodial growth habit.

These orchids are quite popular among beginners and expert growers alike. Many species are easy to bloom, so they easily reward the novice grower with gorgeous flowers that are very long lasting. Slipper orchids are known to stay in bloom for as long as six to eight weeks. Most of the species and hybrids offered for sale are easy to grow and produce stunning blooms and foliage, thereby making them essential pieces in beginners’ and experts’ collections.

The flowers they produce are found in a dazzling variety of colors and forms. The usual colors include white, green, yellow, earth tones, pink, purple, and red. The flowers may emerge either in singles or in multiples on a flower stem. Some petals will appear elegantly twisted, while others can be marked with hairs and warts. The dorsal sepal is usually larger and the two lateral ones are often fused behind the lip, thereby making the flower look as if it only has two sepals. The petals appear at right angles from the sepals, are longer and narrower, and often come with fringed edges. The flowers have a waxy texture which allows them to remain fresh looking for several months in many cases.

Many Paphiopedilums exhibit exquisite marbled foliage making them lovely plants even when they are not in bloom. Instead of growing from pseudobulbs, these orchids form a fan of three to seven leaves emerging from a tightly clasped base. This fan of thick, tough leaves is another unique distinguishing feature of slipper orchids. The individual leaves may reach up to 15 inches (37 cm) long and 2 inches (5 cm) wide.

Cultural Information

In general, Paphiopedilums make good houseplants because they are very adaptable to cultivation. Most like intermediate temperatures, average humidity, and medium light levels, which are conditions that are easily achieved in an indoor or home setup. One particular hybrid group, the Maudiae Type Lady’s Slipper Orchids, particularly stands out as being very undemanding, thus making it an ideal beginner orchid.

Adequate light is easier to provide for Paphiopedilums than most other orchids. In fact, some species are among the least demanding when it comes to light. They can be grown on the windowsill, under lights, or in the greenhouse. Low to medium, indirect light is ideal. This means shady conditions in a greenhouse, a filtered south, east or west window in the home, or about 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm.) under a two- or four-tube fluorescent fixture. In exact terms, this is equivalent to about 1,000 foot candles. The leaves should be medium green if the light is appropriate. If they are yellowish, the light is too strong; if they are dark green and spindly, the light is too weak.

The right temperature for your Paphiopedilums varies depending on the species. This genus is divided into 3 groups based on their leaves. One group consists of warm-growing, mottled-leaved orchids, another group is comprised of the cool-growing plain, green-leaved types, and the third group is composed of the warm-growing, strap-leaved multifloral types. The mottled-leaved and strap-leaved types need about 60°F to 65°F (16°C to 18°C) during the night and 75°F to 85°F (24°C to 29°C) during the day. The plain-leaved types, meanwhile, do well when kept at 50°F to 60°F (10°C to 16°C) in the evening and 75°F to 80°F (24°C to 27°C) during the day. However, many growers raise all their Paphiopedilums in the same intermediate temperature range and still get excellent results. These orchids are quite hardy. They can tolerate temperatures as low as 40°F (4°C ) and as high as 95°F (35°C), provided the humidity is low and no excess moisture is left on the leaves when the area is cold, and the plants are kept in a shaded area with good air circulation when the area is warm.

Since Paphiopedilums do not have pseudobulbs that store water, they need to be watered more frequently and consistently. The roots should be slightly moist at all times, that is, neither soggy nor dry. You should water when the medium is beginning to dry but is still slightly damp. When watering, you should water copiously, with the volume of water at least equal to the size of the pot. You should never leave any water standing in the crown of the plant, since this can lead to fatal crown rot. Do not let the potting media dry out completely either. These orchids can benefit from being misted regularly with a spray bottle.

Average humidity for your Paphiopedilums is recommended, specifically, between 55% to 70%. They can still grow and bloom in lower humidity levels, but at a slower rate. The higher range of humidity is desirable to form new roots, which may not grow properly in low humidity conditions. Placing the pot in a pebble tray or using an evaporative cooling system in warm dry climates can increase the humidity level. Air movement is critical, especially when humidity is high, to avoid foliage rot and mold formation.

Paphiopedilums have fleshy and hairy roots that are sensitive to salts. When fertilizing, it is better to use it at diluted rates during every watering. If you wish to stick to a regular feeding schedule, you can fertilize at half-strength applications every two weeks during warmer months and once a month during cooler months. It is very important that you “leach” or flush your orchids with fresh, clean water monthly to prevent fertilizer salt buildups that can damage the roots. Water-soluble orchid fertilizers that are high in nitrogen are suitable for your Paphiopedilums.

When it comes to potting media, most fine to medium grade materials work well for these orchids. Because many of these orchids are forest-floor natives, the potting mix must be able to retain moisture well. You can use any commercially available terrestrial orchid mix, or make your own mix containing medium grade fir bark or coco chips combined with various additives like shredded and chopped sphagnum moss, charcoal or perlite. Additionally, many of these orchids require a basic (alkaline) mix, rather than an acidic mix. To achieve this, the water you are using on your orchids should have a high calcium content. If not, you can top dress the potting medium with dolomite lime or crushed oyster shell.

These orchids have a furry root system that tends to grow downwards so a deeper pot may be required. Paphiopedilums usually need to be repotted every two years or whenever the potting medium decomposes, or new growth has reached the edge of the pot. This is a group of orchids that doesn’t resent being repotted, and actually benefits from it. You should inspect the roots annually for decomposition. A decomposing root will be dark and soft to touch.

When your orchids become large, divide them by pulling or cutting the fans of the leaves apart and into clumps of three to five growths. Make sure that that each division is not too small since smaller divisions will grow, but may not flower. Do not overpot your Paphiopedilums; the average plant should have a 4 to 6-inch pot.

When your Paphiopedilum is mature but hasn’t bloomed yet during its regular blooming season, you can induce flowering. To do this, move it to a little brighter spot. If flower buds have not formed after six to eight weeks, keep the plant in the same bright spot while dropping the night temperatures about 20°F (11°C) cooler than daytime temperatures. If after six to eight weeks, you still do not see any signs of bud formation, then move your orchid back to its normal growing temperature but reduce watering and allow it to get a little drier for another six to eight weeks.

Major Orchid Types – Epidendrum and Relatives

General Description

Epidendrum is a very large genus consisting of more than 1,000 different species. These orchids are native to the tropical and subtropical areas in the Americas, specifically in Southern Mexico, Central America, as well as Southern Florida and some Caribbean islands. Because this is a very large group of orchids, there are a lot of variations in forms and sizes. The most commonly cultivated Epidendrums exhibit either reed-like growths or pseudobulbs with leaves coming out from the end.

Many are prized cultivated plants, and excellent hybrids have likewise been developed. Orchids in this genus have sympodial growth habits. They often grow in tufts or clumps.

The signature physical feature of all Epidendrums is their many small flowers. These bright, colorful, and lovely flowers measure between only 1 to 3 inches (2 to 8 cm.) across. The sepals, which can either be reflexed or spreading, are of uniform size. The petals are as long as the sepals but narrower. The flowers have distinctive three-lobed lips that can vary in form and may have edges that are fringed or toothed. Flowers may appear solo or in clusters in an inflorescence.

Epidendrum is among the first genera to be named. In the 1700’s, it was Carl Linnaeus, the famous scientist and father of modern taxonomy, who named this genus as such. He combined the Greek words epi (which means upon) and dendrum (which means tree) to describe the epiphytic growth of these orchids. During that time, Linnaeus classified as Epidendrums all epiphytic orchids known at that time. Not surprisingly, many of these orchids have since been reclassified into their own separate genera. Examples of these include Encyclia, Prosthechea, Neolehmannia, Oestedella, Barkeria, etc. Also, not all epidendrums are epiphytic. There are some species that are terrestrial or lithophytic.

Cultural Information

Growing Epidendrums can be easy to moderately difficult. These plants are hardy and can withstand less than ideal conditions, except for extremely cold weather.

The basic requirements for most Epidendrums are medium light and moderately warm temperatures. Because of this, they can adapt well to a variety of growing settings, including the home environment (e.g. windowsill). But since this is a very large group of orchids, their cultural requirements will vary depending on where they naturally grow. Some species are found in sea level areas, while others originate in high altitude areas like the Andes. Some species require high light, while others require diffused light. Most grow well in intermediate to cool temperatures. It is best to research the natural habitat of your specific Epidendrum to determine its favored lighting and temperature.

Humidity level should be around 40% to 70%. Regular watering and fertilizing is needed during periods of active growth. Roots like to dry out completely between waterings. The ideal potting material is a medium-textured bark or any coarse mixture that drains very well like volcanic rock. Epidendrums that have reed-like stems usually do not require rest periods, while those that have pseudobulbs should be allowed rest (that is reduced watering and feeding) after they have matured.

These orchids can become top-heavy as they grow. To prevent them from tipping-over, you can repot them in larger, sturdier pots, such as clay pots. If they are reed-stem types and they have outgrown their pots, you also have the option of dividing or cutting them back. The reed-stem types frequently produce keikis (baby plants) along their stems or on their flower spikes. These can be broken from the main stem after they have grown roots, and potted-up as new plants. This same group will frequently re-bloom on the same inflorescence (flower stem).

Major Orchid Types – Brassavola

General Description

Brassavola is a small genus in the Cattleya alliance that consists of exotic looking orchids that are easy to grow. These orchids are native to the lowlands and tropical areas in Latin America, and the Caribbean where they are commonly grown as houseplants or outdoor plants. Robert Brown named this genus Brassavola in the early 1800’s in honor of Antonio Musa Brassavola, a famous Italian botanist and nobleman of 16th century Venice.

Brassavolas are widely crossed by professional hybridizers with other genera to create a vast array of flower colors and fragrance combinations. Many exotic hybrids count Brassavola orchids as parents. Brassavola species that were heavily crossed with Cattleyas and Laelias to produce hybrids known as Brasso-cattleyas and Brassolaeliocattleyas (now reclassified as Rhyncholaelia.) Today, there are about 20 recognized species under the Brassavola genus.

The leaves of Brassavolas are succulent, long, slender and pencil-like. These orchids typically bloom during summer and fall. The flowers are slender, often times spidery, and may take on white or lime-green colors, or a combination of both. They also frequently come with sweet, permeating evening scents that dissipate by morning. One particular species, the Brassavola flagellaris, which smells like hot chocolate, produces one of the most pleasing and intense fragrances among all orchids.

But the most well-known and easily cultivated species in this genus is the Brassavola nodosa, more commonly known as Lady of the Night. This orchid that hails from Mexico is named as such because of its delightful clove evening scent that can easily fill a large greenhouse. This particular species has made it to the lists of the 10 easiest orchids to grow, thus making it highly popular among amateur growers. Additionally, the Lady of the Night is an important orchid among expert and professional growers because it frequently passes on its ease of blooming, compact habit and fragrance to its offspring. In fact, this species has produced highly awarded hybrids like the Yellow Bird, Apache Sunrise, Carnival Kids, and Morning Glory. The Lady of the Night can also produce a stunning display of flowers, especially when it is not divided and is allowed to grow into a large plant.

Cultural Information

These orchids are fairly easy to grow and they are only particular when it comes to lighting. They need a lot of bright light. They can be grown in a greenhouse, on a windowsill, or under lights, as long as the light they receive falls within 2400 to 3600 foot candles.

Brassavolas can tolerate humidity levels as low as 40%. However, for the best flowering results, increase the humidity during active growth by misting the plants or using pebble trays. During active growth, they require copious amount of water, but must drain well. After new growths have developed, watering and the humidity level can be reduced, but take care not to allow the leaves to shrivel during this period.

Brassavolas thrive in intermediate (55°F to 60°F or 12.8°C to 15.6°C) to warm (65°F or 18.3°C higher) temperatures. They can be potted or placed in a hanging basket with a good potting mix for epiphytic orchids. They will also grow on a bark mount outdoors in mild climates. They can be fertilized regularly with diluted concentrations, or every 2 weeks during active growth and once a month during the rest period.

Major Orchid Types – Laelia and Relatives

General Description

Laelia is a genus closely related to the Cattleya. In fact, they look so similar to Cattleyas that few amateurs are able to tell them apart. Laelias have two distinguishing features that differentiate them from Cattleyas. First, Laelia flower lips tend to be smaller, and second, they have fewer pollinias (clumps of pollen grains) than Cattleyas.

Laelias are indigenous to Brazil, Central America and Mexico. The national flower of Brazil, Laelia purpurata, is a species from this genus. Dr. John Lindley is credited for giving Laelia its name, but it is uncertain why he chose this name. One theory suggests that he may have derived it from a historic Roman family name Laelius. Dr. Lindley may have referred to the ladies of that house, thus making the name a tribute to female beauty and grace. Another theory supposes that Dr. Lindley may have alluded to one of the Vestal Virgins from Greek mythology, again as a reference to their beauty.

Laelias are capable of producing fair to exceptionally showy flower displays. A lot of the flowers come in shades of purple or lavender with contrastingly darker lips. The petals and the sepals typically have the same color, but not the same size. The petals may be broader while the sepals are more slender. The lip, which is its primary distinguishing element, is almost always three-lobed, very pronounced, and smaller than a Cattleya lip. Laelias have 8 pollinias while Cattleyas only have about 4. The size of a Laelia flower varies markedly, with the size ranging from 2 inches to 8 inches (5 to 20 cm.) across. The flowers appear either solo or in clusters. A cluster may have up to 20 flowers per inflorescence that may reach up to 6 feet (183 cm.) long. Some species in this genus are scented. Flowering times vary, depending on the species.

These orchids are found in a variety of habitats in Latin America. Some are epiphytic (growing on trees) and some are lithophytic (growing on rocks). Many Mexican species (like the Laelia anceps) grow in dry areas where they are exposed to very low temperatures, including frost. The Brazilian species can be found growing at sea level and in mountains, so their growing environments vary from very warm to very cool.

There is much debate on the taxonomy of these orchids. In the strictest definition of the genus, there are only 23 species (according to the World Monocotyledon Checklist). However, in the broadest definition, this figure can rise to about 70 species. For example, some sections in this genus like the Rupiculous laelias are considered by some taxonomists as belonging to the Cattleya genus, while others classify them as Hoffmannseggella. The Cattleyodes section of this Genus, which contains many of the Brazilian species, is more genetically similar to Cattleyas than to Laelias.

Cultural Information

Laelias have similar cultural requirements as Cattleyas. Growing them is easy to intermediate in difficulty, and like their cousins, they are pretty tolerant except for overwatering.

With respect to lighting, Laelias like stronger light compared to many of the Cattleyas. A few species even thrive under full sun. Generally, they like warm temperatures of about 55°F (12.7°C) to 60°F (15.5°C) on winter nights. But because different species in this genus grow in very different environments, their temperature requirements will vary from cool to intermediate to warm. The ideal humidity level is between 40% to 60%. The Mexican species prefer to have low humidity when dormant, while the shadier growing species like the hadrolaelias prefer more uniform humidity throughout the year.

Laelias should be watered regularly during active growth, but must completely dry out between waterings. Fertilizing should done only during the growing season. The Brazilian Laelias are typically grown in pots because they get big and because many grow on rocks in their native habitats. The Mexican species like the Laelia anceps are normally grown on tree fern slabs but can be grown in pots. The best growing media are quick-draining mixtures. After they have bloomed and growth starts to slow down, it’s important that you allow your orchids to rest. Reduce watering, do not fertilize, and remove any humidity-raising pebble trays.